Living anywhere remote in Canada brings with it challenges. Living in Ocean Falls is at a whole different level. There is of course partnerships with BC Ferries and the Centrals Coast Barge, that makes life in the ghost town possible, but this is of course on a weekly or bi weekly basis. If you need supplies or assistance, the only way to get it is by air or sea. I wanted to know for myself what the trip was like to the neighbouring community of Bella Bella, where many locals get their groceries.
This is not a long trip, and should only take an hour or less with the average boat, but the danger is the six nautical mile passage in the main channel. The inlets can be perfectly calm, yet the main channel can have high winds and huge waves, making it incredibly dangerous with a small boat. We planned a day with minimal wind, and things went exactly as expected, with a bit of white cap on the channel. What we didn't expect was to find so many relics and hints from the past. Between Ocean Falls and Bella Bella, there are hints of the past in nearly every bay, because this was once a very heavily trafficked area in the boom days. Coming into Sheerwater and Bella Bella was the biggest surprise, because there is just so much that is abandoned or decaying. I believe part of this is because of so much turnover through the past decade.
The first big surprise was the floating (sinking) barge with a camp or lodge on it. When you are this far from civilization, disposing of something as large as a barge can be very difficult, and often times what happens is exactly what you see. They are pushed into a corner and ignored. Rounding the bend came our second surprise, a deteriorating expedition ship or yacht. To me, with a background working on ships and an obsession with adventure, it is incredibly interesting to see a ship like this, because it would be a dream to have a ship like this. This ship would make an excellent expedition ship, and to see it sitting and decaying is devastating, but I don't believe that was the intention.
This ship was purchased and outfitted to be a floating fishing charter off the coast of Haida Gwaii, but insurance issues prevented the business from ever even starting. I would love to get to see inside the vessel, but from what I understand it is no longer in operating condition.
The stop in Bella Bella was quick but enjoyable. We got our groceries, at a surprisingly good price, and made our way back to Ocean Falls. We were greeted by a much more happy and calm channel for the trip home, and a cruise along the shoreline was very enjoyable. We were even able to spy some First Nation paintings along the cliffside above.
All in all, maybe the best grocery run I have ever had!
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